How to Travel New Zealand in a Camper Van
New Zealand Travel Itinerary & Guide
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16 Days in New Zealand's South Island
New Zealand’s South Island is home to countless epic adventures and beautiful natural formations including glaciers, lakes, beaches, and mountains. While also featuring vibrant and unique towns like Christchurch and Queenstown. In this guide you’ll learn how to experience the best of New Zealand’s south island by camper van.
Overview
New Zealand’s south island is brimming with adventure and beautiful nature, to get a glimpse of all the island has to offer I would strongly recommend at least two-weeks. We rented a fantastic and funky camper van staying at campsites across the country and occasionally breaking up the journey with a few Airbnbs.The south island is quite large and the roads are a bit of a tougher drive as they curve and are single lane, so it does add up to a lot of driving, but for the most part the drives are beautifully scenic and you’ll want to pullover at all of the amazing photo spots.
A quick overview of our journey. We started in Christchurch picking up our camper van, driving to Lake Tekapo, Te Anu, Milford Sound, Queenstown, Mount Cook, Tasman Glacier, Hanmer Springs, Abel Tasman, Marlborough, through Kaikoura, and ending back in Christchurch.
What did we love about New Zealand? Everyone was extremely kind and welcoming! Many of the cities, like Queenstown are filled with expats, so you’ll have the chance to meet people from all around the world. We also felt completely safe in New Zealand, which was comforting leaving our camper van filled with electronics, our passports and more while we were hiking and never once had an incident. Finally, the country is sprawling with natural beauty and just miles of green, that was an overdue escape from the city life.
Day 1:
Arrive in the beautiful artistic city of Christchurch. We flew from San Francisco to Auckland then had a quick layover before getting to Christchurch. Many of the flights arrive in the morning, giving you a great full day of activities. (Staying up and being active will help with the jet lag.) Christchurch was heavily devastated by earthquakes and years later we could still see the devastation and the slow recovery. As part of its recovery there has been a heavy focus on unique art all throughout the city.
We stayed in a really great Airbnb just 10-minutes walking from City Centre and a 10-minute walk from the camper van rental location. It’s a bit of an interesting area as it’s not very residential but still extremely central. The Airbnb was very modern and stylish. It was very affordable as well. Click here for the link.
(Also use the following link here to receive free credit for your first Airbnb reservation.)
C1 Espresso was a recommendation from a local friend and we are so glad we followed their advice. Placed in an older building that survived the earthquake, this unique cafe and restaurant has great food and is boiling over with jaw-dropping art, significantly reflecting the culture of Christchurch. My two big recommendations are to make sure you fill up your water using their awesome water station that is a repurposed sewing machine and then to use the bathroom which is hidden behind a sliding bookcase. Once you reach the bathroom, you might be greeted with an audio book of Harry Potter playing over the speaker. (Time it right and you might get the chance to hear Moaning Myrtle.) We enjoyed the Three Filling Omelette (with spinach, feta, and salmon) and the Open Breakfast Burrito. For drinks the Cold Chocolate and a cappuccino were an excellent choice.
Artistic Loop of Christchurch
Shake off your jetlag and enjoy the beautiful uniqueness of Christchurch. We followed this map’s red path which led us to some fantastic hidden gems including the Transitional Cathedral (you have to check this out-it’s a cathedral built out of cardboard and other temporary supplies), the destroyed Christchurch Cathedral, and the 185 Empty Chairs display (showing one chair for each victim of the Christchurch earthquake. They say this display is temporary, just like our lives, so please enjoy it while it exists).
Our walking tour ended right down the street from the famous Francesca’s Italian Kitchen (they also have a location in Wanaka and own Wanaka’s famous restaurant Kika). Francesca’s focus is on simple and beautifully crafted Italian food. I ordered the gnocchis with braised beef cheek. The gnocchis had a perfect seer that added a unique flavor and texture. My partner had the lamb shoulder ragu. This meal was one of my favorites in New Zealand. The lamb shoulder was so tender and wonderfully complimented with olives which I found to be unique against the pappardell noodles.
Rum tasting in New Zealand? Why not! There are a few local rums that you can try as part of their tasting. The decor in the restaurant is great and we enjoyed talking with the bartender who gave us great recommendations.
We were looking for some unique experiences in Christchurch and we stumbled upon the only distillery to offer tastings in Christchurch: Curiosity Gin and the Spirits Workshop. They have both gin tastings and a single malt whiskey. We enjoyed talking with one of the distillers and learning more about Curiosity and the distilling scene in New Zealand.
Kiwis, the famous birds of New Zealand are extremely hard to find in the wild and actually have a very low survival rate without the support of animals reserves like the one we visited. (Their odds go from 5% chance of survival to 95% chance of survival in the wild after being helped by the reserves). We visited the Willowbank Wildlife Reserve, which offers a unique experience of a Kiwi and bird tour with a guide then a Maori cultural experience including a traditional Maori dinner. I’m not the biggest fan of birds to be honest, but some of the birds we saw on the tour were fascinating and our guide gave us great information that made us enjoy them even more. The Maori culture experience was a bit cheesy and at times the staff was pretty unprofessional (basically high school aged kids performing and laughing through much of it), but it was still really interesting to learn about the traditional Maori people of New Zealand. Then you get to experience a modern Hangi, a traditional Maori meal that is cooked in the ground. I think if you go in with some expectations of what the experience will be like it, it’s more enjoyable. I still think the best part of the whole tour was seeing the kiwis! We got to see at least 3-4 and they were so cute waddling around in the dark! They do offer transportation to and from the tour as it’s a little bit on the edge of the city, so try to reserve that before 2 p.m. (we didn’t on the way there and had to pay for a $30 uber).
Day 2:
Pick up your camper van and begin the road trip around the stunning South Island.
Grab a quick but delicious breakfast and coffee from Unknown Chapter Coffee. The decor is beautiful and compliments their great food. I had the porridge with a blueberry compote and almond crumble. My partner had the shredded beef flatbread which was unique but very flavorful. Of course we had to start the day with a cappuccino.
Pick up your funky and awesome camper van from Escape Rentals in Christchurch. Each camper van is painted by an artist with a unique and outstanding design. Ours featured flying fish on one side and chocolate fish (a New Zealand candy) on the other side. We reserved a self-contained van (meaning you can camp in any legal area or self-contained campsites) with automatic transition (yes, cause we’re from the states we don’t know how to drive stick that well). The camper van can be set up with a small table and two bench seats then converted into a pretty large bed that was perfectly comfortable for two people. We bought the add-on brand new sheets just to be a bit more comfortable. There are curtains in the van to block out the sun in the mornings, and they work really well. I actually had some of my best nights of sleep in the van. They also provide a power cord and power extension that you can plug in at campsites to be able to charge your devices. For self-contained campers they also have a little toilet, we avoided using this at all costs. There is also a “kitchen” in the back that has a small cooking area, a portable burner, and a sink. We used facilitates at the campsites for most of our cooking though. Escape also provides a few dishes and utensils to use. The van had a Sony radio deck that could use aux cables and also usb connections. I loved our little van and would totally rent one again.
Our checkout process of the van was very easy. We read some documentation on the van and driving in New Zealand. Then watched a safety video. Signed some papers and elected for the full insurance coverage just to play it safe. We had an inspection of the van and were then off on the road. Remember that in New Zealand you drive on the left side of the road, which can be tricky for a lot of people.
Stock up on supplies at Pak'nSave
Before heading out on our road trip, we stopped at the low cost Pak’nSave to stock up on supplies for our road trip. We bought mostly the basics and if we were going to cook somewhere one night, we would usually stop at a local grocery store to buy meats or fresher produce. A few examples of things we found useful to buy were: shampoo, body soap, hand soap, paper towels, toilet paper, tissues, water bottles, a few pastries, bread, instant coffee, tea packets, Nutella (yes you have to buy Nutella), peanut-butter, jelly, a few canned soups and stews (just incase we ended up short for time or a little stranded-these did come in handy actually), beef jerky, snack bars, trail mix, loofahs, almond milk (doesn’t need to be refrigerated until opened), orange juice, band aids, Tim Tams (do not forget the Australian treat that is so good) and of course lots of wine! If you do buy alcohol, be sure to bring your passport with you as local IDs like a drivers license will not work. If you do purchase above a certain amount on groceries, I believe there is a discount on gas.
Drive to Lake Tekapo: Stop in Geraldine
We then began our road trip constantly reminding ourselves to stay on the left side of the road. We made a quick stop in Geraldine to stretch our legs and walk around this cute little town. There are also some public bathrooms for use.
Fairlie Bakehouse is about an hour outside of Geraldine, and was recommended to us by our Airbnb host as being one of the best meat pies in both New Zealand and Australia. I haven’t had a lot of meat pies to be able to judge that highly heated contest, but I did taste what I thought was perfection! We split three different pies (in order of our favorites): the minced beef and cheese, the bacon and salmon, and the pork belly with apple sauce and crackling. I would strongly recommend the bacon and salmon pie as it’s quite unique but so rich and delicious. We grabbed a fork and knife and dug in our pies, finally looking around and realizing we were the only ones not using our hands like eating a slice of pizza! (Oh well, you live and you learn.)
Lake Tekapo
We finally reached the beautiful Lake Tekapo, where we stopped along side the lake and skipped some rocks on the water while enjoying the gorgeous views. We then walked to the famous Church of the Good Shepard. Then headed to our campsite. We stayed at the Lake Tekapo Motels and Holiday Park. Which as actually our favorite campsite in all of New Zealand. We had lake views right from our camper van that were beautiful to wake up to, the facilities are immaculate and well maintained. They have grills with propane and cooking oils, all the kitchen equipment needed for most meals, and picnic tables looking out at the water.
The only minor issue we had is the showers ran out of hot water on the last day.
The powered site was perfect so we could plug in our power strip and charge our devices over night.
Tekapo Springs
We then visited the Tekapo Springs, which are newer “hot springs” and soaking baths looking over Lake Tekapo. It was enjoyable and relaxing, but was a little gimmicky and not authentic. There isn’t much else to do in Lake Tekapo area during the day, so it’s still something nice to check out and less than a 5-minute walk from the campsite. The hot baths might feel really good after driving and the long flight to New Zealand. We actually ended up going later a second time as part of the Stargazing Tour, so if you don’t go during the day, you can still enjoy it as part of the night tour.
Grill by the Lake
We had heard multiple times that Lake Tekapo restaurants aren’t that good from locals, so we decided to buy some lamb, peppers, couscous and cooked a delicious meal by the lake then enjoyed it in our camper van.
Lake Tekapo is famous in New Zealand because it is part of the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve resulting in some of the most beautiful stargazing in the world. The tour includes a guided description of the stars and they have 3 high power telescopes to be able to look even further. Then you get to float in the hot springs while looking up at the stars. It was extremely relaxing to the point where my partner fell asleep. We were nervous prior to the tour because it was raining and the forecast continued to say it would be cloudy and rainy. If the weather conditions aren’t favorable, they do a virtual reality headset experience instead. They actually started to pull out the VR headsets when we arrived, but we were so lucky because within minutes the clouds opened up and we were able to really enjoy the tour.
Day 3:
We slept in a little bit after the late stargazing tour and headed to Te Anau.
Lake Pukaki Visitor Centre and Mount Cook Alpine Salmon
If you love salmon, you absolutely have to make a stop at the Lake Pukaki Visitor Centre which has a small outpost for Mount Cook Alpine Salmon where they sell the freshest salmon sashimi with garnishing, smoked salmon, and raw salmon to be cooked later. We love salmon so of course we bought one of everything and we’re so glad we did. We ate the sashimi there for breakfast at their really unique and beautiful visitor centre that has picnic tables and indoor areas looking out at Lake Pukaki…which is a gorgeous glacial blue. We then bought raw salmon to grill later that night, and smoked salmon for breakfast the next day. (Gotta get that omega-3 in!) The visitor centre also has bathrooms and beautiful views of the lake.
We made a quick pitstop in Queenstown for lunch at the famous Fergburger! We found parking really easily down the street, which was really nice, even in the camper van. Fergburger is very famous in Queenstown and has been able to position itself as a bucket list item, which results in a long line! (If you do want to skip the line, you can actually call in and place an order for pick up.) We waited about 20-minutes in line, then about 10-minutes for our food, so it wasn’t too bad. We ordered the Ferg Deluxe, which was really good! To be honest, I’m not sure if it lives up to the hype, but it was still a good burger.
Te Anau
We then continued the drive, which is very scenic and enjoyable. We stopped at a small grocery store at Te Anau and bought some sides to go along with our salmon then pulled into our campsite at Getaway Te Anau. It’s a nice campsite, there aren’t really any views but the facilities were very clean and modern and it’s a great location close to the water and walking distance to most restaurants in Te Anau. We grilled our salmon and ate at the picnic tables provided at our campsite. The staff at Getaway Te Anau were very nice and helpful in providing tour information and recommendations, especially as we were having some rainy weather that was impacting our planned activities.
Day 5:
A day trip to Milford Sound.
Milford Sound
We ate breakfast at our campsite (having our final salmon meal which was smoked salmon on toast). Then started the 2 1/2 hour drive from Te Anau to Milford Sound. I know it might seem like a lot of driving in two days but this is a beautiful drive with plenty of photo opportunities including the Mirror Pools and a few other random turnoffs we stopped for. We ate at the Milford Sound Cafe which had quite a lot of options, but can get packed and be a bit slow to check out during peak times. We arranged a 1:30 pm boat cruise through Milford Sound, which was really stunning. (Te Anau Getaway was able to arrange a reservation for us.) We were even able to see dolphins, seals, and multiple rainbows. The boat will even take you very close to waterfalls, so if you don’t want to get soaked I recommend going inside for this. Our boat also doubled up as an overnight cruise that looked really interesting and I think if we had more time we would have liked to do something like this. You can arrange lunch onboard for the cruise or if you don’t want lunch they offer free coffee, hot chocolate, and teas. It was a bit of a chilly day for us so the hot drinks were really nice.
Dinner in Te Anau
Our first night in Te Anau, someone recommended which was The Ranch Bar & Grill…I would recommend staying away from this place. We tried to get in the Fat Duck which had a long wait so we ended up going to the Ranch, which was a very mediocre at best meal. I’ve heard from a lot of people that it’s hard to find a good meal in Te Anau, so maybe cooking at the campsite would be better.
Day 6:
Visit the Glow Worm Caves, hike around Te Anau, then drive back to Queenstown.
Glow Worm Caves
The Glow Worm Caves were extraordinary. Unfortunately, for safety reasons they don’t allow photography in the caves, which actually allows you to sit back and enjoy it more. We were lucky as the caves were flooded from a rainstorm the day before and the water had receded by the time of our tour. The tour starts with a 30-minute boat ride that is really pretty to the island where the glow worm caves are. Then they divide everyone into four groups. Two groups go into the caves while the others do a small nature hike and watch a video about the glow worms. It provides some really helpful information. Once you enter the caves it is stunning. It’s a short walk through the cave then a small boat ride where you just sit back, look up and enjoy the “night sky” that the glow worms make.
We then grabbed lunch at one of Te Anau’s most popular restaurants called the Fat Duck. It was pretty good and they have a nice outdoor area to enjoy the sun. We had one of their chicken, bacon and avocado sandwiches and the fish and chips.
Short Hike of the Kepler Ramble – Control Gates
Recommended to us by the Te Anau Getaway staff we did a short hike on the Kepler Ramble track. We walked about 30-minutes one way, went swimming in the lake, and walked back. There is ample parking in the area. It’s a pretty walk and just even sitting by the lake was nice, so don’t forget to bring your swimsuits.
Drive to Queenstown
Drive from Te Anau back to Queenstown and check into your Airbnb. We had a stellar Airbnb for two people just a short walk from the town center. It had incredible views of Queenstown and was very modern/stylish. It also had a washer and dryer which was great to do a little laundry about a week into our trip and for the fact we were doing water activities in Queenstown. Click here for the link to this awesome Airbnb.
Fat Badgers is a funky pizza place located in the heart of Queenstown. They offer a huge goblet of beer that is equivalent to 3 glasses of beer. We went a little wild on our pizza ordering and ordered half the Badger Experience (“Showing you everything great about NZ: roast lamb, kumara, lamb, onion, roast red pepper, more lamb, mint sauce, rosemary, a swirl of rich gravy and you guessed it…lamb”) and half the seafood pizza which was a medley of various seafood. I would recommend getting half the Badger Experience then maybe another more usual pizza so get both a unique experience (that was still delicious) and something more familiar but delicious as well. Their house salad was great too.
Queenstown Nightlife
We then went bar hopping in Queenstown, checking out a few different local staples. There is a great avenue of bars on Searle Lane including Cowboy Qt (a funky cowboy bar with a mechanical bull and for some reason the strangest mix of music), there is an ice bar but we didn’t visit it, Barmuda (has an awesome outdoor patio with a fireplace), then a few other really cool bars! Just a block down is Yonder and World Bar. World Bar is really fun and always has a good crowd. Another bar that we didn’t get to checkout but was really popular was the Sundeck Roof Top Bar. Be sure to bring your passport with you, I know it’s annoying to carry around but a lot of bars will not let you in with a foreign drivers license.
Day 7:
Experience a beautifully unique mix of what Queenstown has to offer.
Yonder
Yonder is a lovely decorated restaurant (and if you went out last night, a bar). Check it out in the daylight and grab a delicious breakfast. We had the crispy eggs and greens which was a light and uqnie breakfast, the real winner was the corn & jalapeno fritters! So flavorful and filling.
Paddle Boarding & Kayaking
We rented paddle boards and kayaks from Paddle Queenstown and did a self-tour around Lake Wakatipu eventually finding our own private beach. We were able to walk up and rent the paddle boards and kayaks from their tent without a reservation. There are public bathrooms to change into. The staff is really friendly and they provide a small map of Lake Wakatipu and life jackets that are required.
We then rode the Gondola up to the top of Bob’s peak. We ended up buying Gondola tickets + 3 luge rides (I’ll get to the luge in a second). The gondola had a very short line and in seconds we were up above Queenstown enjoying the spectacular views of Lake Wakatipu and the surrounding mountains.
To be honest, we were nervous that the luge was going to be some cheesy over-touristy attraction and that we wouldn’t enjoy it all…our friends told us to buy at least 3 runs on the luge…and by the end of it we wish we bought more! The Skyline luge is a blast! It will have you screaming, laughing, and wanting more. There are two lanes. The first being a beginners lane with smoother turns and the second being a more advanced high-adrenaline course. They provide helmets and of course photo ops at an extra cost. You also get to ride a ski lift back to the top of luge path. We saw little kids to seniors having a great time on the luge.
We grabbed drinks and a quick snack at the Skyline Bar enjoying the beautiful views over Queenstown. We then walked around the Skyline area and took photos from their wrap-around balconies.
We then had one our favorite meals in Queenstown at the Botswana Butchery. We were lucky to snag a seat outside as the inside was completely reserved. (Be sure to make a reservation in advance, even on a week night.)
We enjoyed a dozen oysters, six raw and six buttermilk battered. Then for the main course, I had the delicious Red Curry of South Island Wild Goat, which I cannot recommend enough. The flavors were complex and perfectly melded together. My partner had the Central Otago Rabbit that was cooked perfectly and full of flavor.
The staff members were so nice and welcoming.
One of the top highlights of our trip in New Zealand were the Onsens located just outside of Queenstown. This is not authentic Japanese Onsen, but is still one of the top hot springs I have ever been to. Be sure to make a reservation as soon as possible, as the Onsen reservations can fill up months in advance. We made our reservation for when the sun would be setting. This is the perfect time because you get to enjoy the beautiful mountains and creek below during the day, then get to enjoy pink and purple sunset wisps across the sky and finally the beautiful night sky complimented by the Onsen’s “candle lights”.
We were picked up from the Queenstown town center and then shuttled out to the hot springs. We chose a package with an alcoholic beverage (wine) and a snack (chocolate, chips, or ice cream). The staff showed us to our Onsen room and gave us a quick introduction. We then showered off and enjoyed the beauty of the hot pools and surrounding nature. The entire experience last around one-hour.
A trip to the Onsen wouldn’t be complete without finishing off the day with delicious creamy gelato from Mrs Ferg Gelateria. Roasted Hazelnut and Double Espresso & Dark Chocolate hit the spot!
Day 8:
Grab breakfast, go whitewater rafting, then spend a night out in Queenstown.
Halo Forbidden Bite
This restaurant was recommended to us by a friend and it was a great place to grab breakfast. I was craving a big breakfast and my partner had the breakfast burrito. Everything was really good!
We booked a whitewater rafting tour over the Shotover River (which is a class 3-5). When we were reading the material online, we were extremely nervous this would be too much for our first time and that we should have chosen the Kawarau beginner’s run. We were so glad that we braved the Shotover River as it was extremely fun and we felt completely safe and in control the entire time. We actually talked with people who did the Kawarau River and they mentioned they regretted not doing the Shotover River. I have to note, we had two small injuries out of the large group of 30 people. One person’s head slung forward and hit the camera at the front of the boat giving them a pretty deep cut. My partner got a small cut on their hand from the ropes on the side of the boat, so just be careful. The drive out to the Shotover River is on one of the most dangerous roads in the world with steep cliffs and sharp edges. The drivers are very professional and take the turns very cautiously. If you have a fear of heights though, this might not be the most enjoyable experience. If you’re a thrill seeker though, it’s quite fun. The whitewater rafting experience starts with a quick intro and course on how to row and what to do if the raft flips. It’s a lot of rowing and can be tiring at times but is so fun, especially when you go through the small falls and then the cavern. At the end of the whitewater rafting experience, there is a brewery (Canyon Food & Brew) with a beautiful view and great beer.
My biggest recommendation is to be careful of the sand flies. They are no joke! Most of our body was covered but along the river they kept landing on our hands and we thought they were just regular small flies, but they left our hands covered in painful bites. We’ve been back from our trip for 2 weeks now and we still have bumps on our hands. Keep moving and keep swatting as much as you can if one lands on you. You can also buy some sprays and ointments to help keep them away.
Blue Kanu
We grabbed dinner at Blue Kanu, an Asian and Pacific Island fusion restaurant. Without a reservation we had to eat at the bar, but really enjoyed talking with the extremely friendly bartenders. We shared the Kung Pao duck wonton nachos, whipped goats cheese, avocado, pineapple salsa, and the Sticky Pork Belly, char siu pork fried rice, spam fries, pickled pineapple. Both were really good and flavorful.
Nightout in Queenstown
We then bar hopped around Queenstown visting the beautiful 1879 Beer Garden and then visting the bars again on Searle Lane.
Day 9:
Drive to Wanaka with a stop at the Blue Pools and dinner at Kika.
Bespoke Kitchen
We grabbed a quick breakfast at Bespoke Kitchen, which is just down the street from the Skyline gondola. I had a Salmon Benedict and my partner had a Mushroom Benedict with a side of sausage.
Drive from Queenstown to the Blue Pools just outside of Wanaka. Our original plan was to drive from Wanaka to Franz Josef with a stop at the blue pools but we had to change our itinerary as the bridge to Franz Josef was destroyed in a rain storm and flood. So we had to go out of our way to reach the blue pools, which is a bit of a shame because it was over a 2-hour drive for a 30-minute activity. The blue pools are absolutely stunning and some people jump from one of the higher bridges into the deeper water, but we didn’t see anyone doing it while we were there and thought it was a bit crazy. We did end up going down to the beach and going in the glacial water. We would have loved to spend more time here but the sand flies are unbelievable there. If you stand still for a second they swarm and will eat you alive. Even if you put your shirt or jacket down they swarm around it. We tried to escape them in the blue pools but they followed us. Bring some repellent if you can, so hopefully your experience can be more enjoyable.
Check into campsite
We stayed at the Mt. Aspiring Holiday Park, I wouldn’t really recommend it besides the view of the lake. The bathrooms and facilities weren’t that nice compared to others and the showers were coin operated. It is on the outskirts of Wanaka. If you can, come out of the camper van in the middle of. the night though and enjoy the beautiful constellations and stars.
Cork
We grabbed a quick drink at Cork which had an outdoor patio and live music.
Kika
Kika is a world famous restaurant offering delicious food. We arrived a few minutes before the restaurant opened to ensure we could get a table. We ordered the tasting menu for the day, which offered a great taste of multiple dishes.
Day 10:
We spent most of the day hiking Roys Peak then grabbed dinner in Wanaka.
We grabbed a quick yet filling breakfast from Relishes Cafe. The Relishes Cooked Breakfast (Eggs any style, toasted ciabatta, free farmed bacon, pork and fennel sausage, spring onion potato cakes, grilled tomato, onion jam) was good!
To be honest, we have a love-hate relationship with Roys Peak. Would I do it again? Hell no. Am I glad I did it? Yes. Roys Peak is around a 6-hour hike. Of course, we though we could do it in 4-hours, nope, it’s a pretty tough hike. Make sure to wear really good hiking boots, pack lots of water, snacks and sunscreen. We threw on our headphones and powered up the steep zig-zag path mountain coming across sheep, cows, and rabbits. The views are stunning on a clear and beautiful day. It took around 3-hours to reach the main lookout point and then another 30-minutes to reach the peak. We were exhausted at the main lookout and wish we packed more water. The hike down was painful as my boots quickly caused me to have blisters. I actually took my boots off for part of the hike to make it down when I could. We were exhausted by the end of the hike. It’s really popular to hike in the morning and to reach the peak at sunrise.
We were craving a delicious milkshake from Patagonia Chocolate. It hit the spot and we also did some gift shopping for family back home. (There is also a Patagonia Chocolate in Queenstown.)
Dinner in Wanaka
We grabbed dinner at the Speight’s Ale House, I would skip this place as it had mediocre pub food. We got the burger which lacked any flavor at all. There are plenty of other great food options in Wanaka!
Day 11:
We were originally planning on going to Franz Joseph Glacier but a torrential storm knocked out the bridge we needed to take making the journey from 2-hours to 10-hours. We ended up re-routing to Mount Cook’s Tasman Glacier, which we are so glad we did. The Tasman Glacier has a way better chance of being able to go on a Heli Hike as the weather is generally more favorable.
Mount Cook
We then drove 2-hours to the base of Mount cook and grabbed a quick breakfast at the Old Mountaineer’s Cafe. It was fast and very filling ahead of a. long day.
Hands down, our favorite experience in our two-weeks in New Zealand. We were very lucky as the helicopter rides are subject to the perfect weather conditions and many times you won’t know until you arrive at the airport or check-in in the morning. It’s an expensive adventure, but 100% worth it! We checked in for our pre-arranged reservation upstairs at the Helicopter Line. After getting our gear and the safety briefing, we were whisked up into the air! Bring sunglasses and wear sunscreen as there is a strong reflection from the sun on the ice.
Mount Cook or Drive to Hanmer Springs
You can stay in Mount Cook to go hiking (our hiking trail was actually washed out due to the previously mentioned storm-also if you plan on camping, Mount Cook can go below freezing at night) or you can begin the long drive to Abel Tasman, driving through Christchurch to Hanmer Springs, which is a good stopping point. It is an exhausting drive but makes the trip up to Abel Tasman a lot easier the next day. On the way to Hanmer Springs we of course stopped at the Fairlie Bakehouse for more meat pies then worked our way up to the Hanmer Springs Top 10 Holiday Park. This Holiday Park has great facilities and was a nice place to stay at. We made use of our canned soups and just had a quick and simple meal. Keep an eye on the time, our phone service kept cutting out so we couldn’t make a reservation, and made it 10-minutes before the reception closed. Also, there are long stretches of road without gas stations (or gas stations that won’t accept foreign credit cards) so be sure to keep your tank constantly full.
Day 12:
Finish the drive up to Abel Tasman then relax along the water.
Continue the journey up to the beautiful Abel Tasman. We arrived in the afternoon right in time for check-in at the cozy and adorable Abel Tasman Lodge. I really liked staying at the Abel Tasman Lodge, it’s a family run business with very comfortable rooms, great location, and nice staff. They even have a private hot tub you can reserve that looks out at the surrounding hills and horses grazing. Check it out around sunset to enjoy beautiful pink and purple wisps across the sky then the beautiful constellations once the stars come out. The back patio that the lodge opens up to is very relaxing and Pukekos will come up on your porch. They offer laundry at a cost, continental breakfast room service at an additional cost, and packed lunches which are perfect for hikes into Abel Tasman.
Grab happy hour drinks and appetizers at Hooked on Marahau while enjoying the sun on their comfortable patio. We then waited until the dinner hour to order their seafood pasta and the banana leaf snapper. Both were good, normally seafood pasta is a bit of a fish throw away but this seafood pasta was delicious.
Day 13:
Kayak around Abel Tasman’s beautiful waters.
The Park Cafe
We grabbed a quick but filling breakfast at the Park Cafe. They have a few quick options in their display case or you can do a full breakfast. They also know how to make a great cappuccino.
Spend the day kayaking and discovering beautiful sandy beaches along Abel Tasman’s coast. (Yes, two days ago you were on a glacier and now you’re in some of the most beautiful coastal waters in the word…the beauty of New Zealand.) We rented kayaks from R&R Kayak, which is right next to Abel Tasman. Their staff was incredibly friendly and welcoming, which is nice as the safety briefing and orientation is around one hour. After the briefing they shuttled us out to the launch point and did a few trial paddles then we were off on our own. They gave us a map and some guidance on where and where not to go and then we were out exploring. It’s tiring work paddling, we thought we would be coasting along quickly, but it took a lot out of us, so bring lots of water and enjoy all the gorgeous beaches as resting points along the way. Our favorite part was getting to see the baby fur seals playing in the water on the back of Adele island. Kayak rentals are around 85 NZD for 4-hours. They have set times for their safety briefings and when you can hire a kayak, so make reservations in advance to confirm timing. If you’re a bit more adventurous, you can kayak into the park, spend the night, leave your kayak on a designated beach, then hike south (or take a water taxi) out of the park.
By the end of kayaking, you will be craving a tall beer and pizza from the Park Cafe! They also have live music and open mic nights as well! We ordered the meat lovers, funghi, and a salad. Everything was delicious and well earned. We even finished off the meal with their delicious desserts including the wicked chocolate brownie and chocolate ganache cake!
Day 14:
Take a water taxi along the northern coast then hike through the stunning Abel Tasman National Park.
Breakfast at the Park Cafe
We’re creatures of habit and loved the Park Cafe…also we had more time for a full breakfast, so why not?
Water Taxi and Hiking through Abel Tasman
The night before your hike, the Abel Tasman Lodge staff can help arrange a roundtrip water taxi in and out of Abel Tasman. (Added bonus, you can request a packed lunch that is perfect to take into the park and enjoy on the beautiful beaches.) We chose to have the Water Taxi drop us off at Bark Bay then pick us up at Anchorage Bay. (The Abel Tasman staff recommended this as being the most beautiful day hike to take.)
The water taxi pick-up is right next to the Abel Tasman Lodge and a short 5-minute walk from the Park Cafe. The water taxi is an experience on its own. The tides strongly impact the beaches in Abel Tasman so they have to use a combination of trailers and tractors to be able to get you in and out of the water. The water taxis don’t run straight up the coast in the morning, they’ll typically give you a quick tour of the Round Stone Boulder a bit south then make their way along Adele Island so you get another chance to see the Fur Seals.
We then started our hike from Bark Bay to Anchorage Bay, which the hike is heavily impacted by the tides (if tides are low on the hike you can cut across a beach, saving about one and a half hours). We made a few pit stops along the hike enjoying all of the classic suspended bridges running over the clear water.
A highlight on the hike was a pitstop at the Cleopatra Falls. The Cleopatra Falls is a small waterfall with an area that can double as a human waterslide. It’s fun to hang out on the boulders and relax. We actually saw a large eel in the water too!
The Fat Tui is a small permanent food truck and lot that features overstuffed burgers, sandwiches, fries and more! After our long hike of course we had to treat ourselves with the Off the Hook, a fish filet sandwich (was really good) and the Bullseye, which is more of a steak sandwich than an actual burger. Their french fries with a yogurt sauce and sweet chili sauce were uniquely delicious.
Day 15:
Explore New Zealand’s famous Marlborough Wine Country.
Airbnb in Marlborough Wine Country
We drove down to Marlborough’s famous wine country and checked into our Airbnb that was a large comfortable house with many stylish amenities. The best part, it was right in the middle of wine country! If you’re interested in booking it you can find the link here.
After checking in, we rented bikes from Bike 2 Wine, a small bike rental shop ran out of a bed & breakfast by the kindest and sweetest couple. It’s just a short 10-minute walk from the Airbnb we booked. They gave us a quick overview of the area and some of the best wineries to visit. My partner is in the wine industry so there were a few we absolutely had to visit. By the way in New Zealand they refer to “tasting rooms” as “cellar doors”. All of the tastings we did were $5-$10 for more than 5 pours (it’s a great deal compared to Napa).
We started at Forrest which is a winery you would want to throw a. party at, it just has a fun, welcoming, and relaxing atmosphere. They have a beautiful lawn with beanbag chairs and comfortable furniture. We enjoyed the tasting as it wasn’t at a counter but we got to sit down and enjoy the wines.
A small family operated cellar door, Bladen Wine features welcoming and exquisite hospitality, actually crowning it a recent winner of Cellar Door of the year.
Wairau River Wines is a must if you’re in the Renwick area, especially for lunch! The family’s property is stunning and features a beautiful tasting room, wonderful staff members, and a fantastic restaurant. We stopped to have lunch here and it was one of our top meals in New Zealand. The meal started with a cheese board (we had the wine munchies) then we split the WR Burger (OMG! This burger was so good!) and the Beef Salad (which is very popular). Between the two, I don’t think we could choose a favorite.
Of course, on the way out we had to buy a few bottles as gifts for family back home!
A bit of a trek from Wairau River, but completely worth it, Cloudy Bay is a large estate with a stunning patio and lawn, and of course world famous wine! Their tasting was 10 NZD, which is more expensive for Renwick, but still a great deal.
We originally wanted to try Arbour after hearing this constantly recommended to us, but we couldn’t get a reservation, but it all worked out because we got to eat at Gramado’s Restaurant & Bar, a Brazilian restaurant in Blenheim. We were even lucky enough to get in here last minute as most of the tables were taken, but they were kind enough to squeeze us into the bar area. Gramado’s was one of our top meals in New Zealand! The Fiejoada (a traditional Brazilian black bean stew) and the assado (roast lamb) were perfect! We loved talking with the friendly staff in between courses. Can’t recommend this place enough, make sure to get a reservation ahead of time!
Drinks in Blenheim
There are quite a few small bars in Blenheim to enjoy! We started at Fairweathers for a few drinks then to Yard Bar, which on the. weekends actually turns into a small dance club.
Day 16:
Drive back to Christchurch and return the camper van then check into your Airbnb.
Drive down to Christchurch
We grabbed breakfast at Fairweathers, which is awesome to visit in the morning during harvest season! All of the harvest workers work during the night and then visit the bars in the morning for breakfast and pitchers of beer. We were a bit confused why people were ordering shots of whiskey at 8 a.m. and the staff was confused why we didn’t want a beer with our Eggs Benedict…either way it was cool to see! Fairweathers offers a regular assortment of New Zealand style breakfasts. We then began the 4-hour-plus journey down the coast through Kaikoura to Christchurch. Enjoy the drive through Kaikoura as you’ll see plenty of seals along the way. Be aware that much of the road is torn up for construction and there are quite a lot of traffic stops. We returned back to the camper van depot to drop off our van, and it was actually a bit of a sad farewell.
Little High is a collective eatery featuring an assortment of international cuisines all in a hip and cool environment. We ate at Bacon Bros and Eight Grains. Grab a drink and enjoy your last full day in New Zealand.
Since it was our last day in New Zealand we turned this part of our trip into a drinking fest to celebrate the great times we had and try to shave off the sad thoughts of leaving this beautiful country. No 4 Bar is a great stop with an awesome outdoor patio on a nice day.
Kong
Take a walk through Hagley Park to Kong, a King Kong-themed bar. Surprisingly it’s not that cheesy and focuses more on the era King Kong was based in. They have really good classic drinks all with a story behind them on the menu.
Keep the bar hopping going at Chiwahwah Mexican Cantina Bar, next door to Kong. The inside of the restaurant is really cool and the patio outside is really enjoyable on a nice day.
We grabbed our final dinner in New Zealand at the famous Amazonita, just a restaurant down from Chiwahwah’s. Amazonita has fascinating decor and good food! At the end of our trip we were craving steaks so. we both indulged in the ribeye and split a bottle of wine! A great way to end our fantastic trip and adventure across New Zealand’s south island.
Tips and Tricks:
- Credit cards were accepted everywhere we went in New Zealand so we never had to worry about cash.
- It’s easier to pay if your credit card has a chip. You’ll still have to sign receipts though.
- I would recommend going around January to early March for the best weather, but trying to avoid Chinese New Years as it can be extremely crowded. Since most of the south island features activities in nature, it’s crucial to go at the most ideal weather times to avoid any interruptions.
- Fly Air New Zealand if you can, even in economy class we were able to sleep comfortably and had plenty of leg room. There are so many nice touches that Air New Zealand provides easily making them one of the top airlines in the world.
- When planning your trip add 30 minutes to one hour to every travel time that Google Maps estimates, unfortunately many of the roads are winding two-lane roads making it difficult to pass larger slow vehicles. Also, there are a lot of construction slow downs and traffic stops.
- Sand flies are no joke, be sure to cover your skin when you’re near rivers or areas that indicate there are sand flies. 3-weeks later and we still have small bumps from the sandflies.
- We opted into Verizon’s international data plan on our cellphones which wasn’t the most reliable internet but still helped us navigate our way around the country.
- The New Zealand electric sockets are Type I.
- New Zealand is not typically known as a culinary destination. Even with doing tons of research and asking locals, there were only a few meals that truly stood out, and we’ve done our best to highlight them in this itinerary.
- The trip involves A LOT of driving. As mentioned before, most of the drives are beautiful and you just have to be in the mindset that this is part of the experience, so create a great playlist, download some podcasts, and it’ll go by wonderfully.